Shoe



Feb. l2, 1946. v. w. Ro'rHwElLER SHOE Filed May 18, 1942 Patented Feb.12, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE I y Valentine W. Rothweiler,Greenup, Ill. Application May 18, 1942, Serial No. 443,350

n n (c1. ses-16) 1 claim.

This invention relates to the manufacture of stitchdown shoes; and hasspecial reference to means for laying and stretching the lining smoothlyand evenly around the shoe last, and leaving the upper, particularly thevamp portion or" the upper, free for attachment to the outsole.

In the manufacture of stitchdown shoes, itis sometimes diiiicult to layand stretch the lining evenly and smoothly against and aroundl the lastto prevent the formation of creases or otherirregularities in the liningbeyond the edge of the insole, within the shoe. This diiculty is metirrespective of the manner in which the margin of the lining is attachedto the insole and outsole of the shoe. In themanufacture of stitchdownshoes, the practice of laying and stretching Aor extending theliningaround and against the sides of the last, and placing the marginof the lining upon or against the margin of the insole merely bymanipulation, which is to say, by use of the fingers only and withoutany mechanical device or element, does not always prevent the liningfrom forming wrinkles or other irregularities beyond the edge of theinsole, within the shoe. As a consequence, quantities of the stitchdownshoes are imperfectly made because creases or other irregularities existin the linings of the shoes, lcausing discomfort to the wearers.

Another object of the invention is to provide means for'laying andstretching the lining for the forepart of a stitch'down shoe and holdingthis lining part stretched uniformly and smoothly preparatory for andduring subsequent attachment of the vamp portion of the upper to theoutsole so that, when the shoe is completed, the lining is held evenlyand smoothly stretched, and free from creases and other irregularitiesthat may exist in the Vamp portion of the upper and that may otherwisecause discomfort to the wearer.

Other objects will be apparent from the fo-llowing description,reference being made to the annexed drawing, in which- Fig. 1 is abottom plan view of a lasted stitchdown shoe having the upper spreadopen to show clearly the devices by which the lining is stretchedsmoothly and evenly along and against the sides of the last, and laidover upon the exposed surface of the insole preparatory for attachmentof the outsole.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross-sectional view on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1,showing the device for smoothly stretching and holding stretched thelining against the outer surface of the last.

Fig. 3 is a similar sectional view showing the use of glue for attachingthe margin of the lining to the insole.

Fig. 4 is a side elevation of a childs shoe made in accordance with thisinvention, parts of the upper being removed to show the lining both atthe forepart of the'shoe and at the quarter.

The stitchdown shoe structure shown in Figs. l, 2 and 3 and comprisingan upper l, a lining 2 for the forepart of the shoe and a lining 3 forthe quarter, is mounted on a last 4 preparatory for lasting operations,including attachment of the insole 5 to the lining and the outsole 6 tothe upper l to complete the shoe. The shoe upper and the lining thereformay be made and assembled in the usual or'any preferred manner, and areplaced upon the last ,.5 according to known practice. The insole 5 istemporarily secured to the last 4 as by small tacks 1 driven through theinsole and into the last. rThe tacks 'l hold the insole fromdisplacement during lasting operations and while the insole and outsoleare being attached, as usual. f

In order to lay and stretch the lining evenly and smoothly against andaround the last, and

to prevent the formation of creases or other irregularities in thelining beyond the edge of the insole and within the shoe, I provide acontinuous and uninterrupted sleeve along the entire length of themargin of each lining part 2 and 3. The continuous and uninterruptedsleeve in connection with the margin of the lining part 2 may be formed,as shown, by folding outwardly the margin 8 extending the entirelengthof said lining part 2 and attaching said margin to the superposedportion of the lining proper by a line of stitches 9, or otherwise, toform the open sleeve l0. A flexible and substantially inelastic orunstretchable cord or wire ll is arranged to eXtend through the sleeveI0, with the ends of said cord or wire projecting beyond the rear endsof said sleeve. The two ends of the continuous and uninterrupted sleeve|0 are rearwardly beyond the wider portion of the forepart of the last,at the instep part of the last, and are closer together than any otherparts of said sleeve. Preferably, the cord or wire Il is placed inposition before the margin 8 is folded outwardly and before theattaching line of stitches 9 is formed, so that the difiiculty ofthreading or passing the cord or wire Il through the sleeve after thesleeve has been formed, is avoided.

The sleeve in connection with the quarter lining 3 may be formed, asshown, by folding outwardly the margin I2 thereof, and attaching saidmargin to the superposed portion of the lining ping.

proper by a line of stitches I3, or otherwise, to form the open sleeveI4. A flexible substantially inelastic or unstretchable cord or wire Isimilar to the cord or wire II is arranged to extend continuouslythrough the sleeve I4, with its ends projecting beyond the forward endsof said sleeve.`

As in the case of the cord or wire I I, the cord or wire I5 ispreferably placed in position before the margin I2 is folded outwardlyand before the at- Ytachingline of stitches I3 is formed, so that thedifficulty.r of threading or passing said cord or wire through thesleeve is avoided.

Both sleeves may be formed as described, with the cords or wiresextending continuously through;

faces of the last 4 against which the lining is? pressed. This preventsthe formation of creases or other irregularities in the lining withinthe shoe. The lower margins of the lining sections to the insole 5 byglue I9 (Fig. 3), orotherwise. After the lining has been stretchedsmoothlyand evenly around and against the shoe last, and has beensecured in the smoothly and evenly stretched position, the outsole 6 isattached. The shoe shown is a childs shoe of the stitch-down type. It isclear that the invention may be used for stretching smoothly aand evenlythe lining of other types of shoes, and is not limited to a stitchdownshoe.

s `From thev foregoing. it isV apparent that this invention institch-down shoes attains all of its intended objects and purposeseilciently, accurately and practicably. It saves time, and consequentlyreducesA cost of manufacture. The cords Y or wires II and I5 may bedrawn and attached manually or otherwise, and the use of the'bindngfgllldmayhe optional. The application of the are drawn inwardlyto cover the margin of the 'insole 5 'so that all of the parts of thesleeveforming Vmargins 8 and I2, including the lines of stitches 9 and'I3, are inwardly beyond the edge ofv the insole 5. In each use of theterm cord alone to refer to the parts II and I5, said term defines saidparts II and' i5, irrespective of whethery said parts are composed ofmetallic substances or not. Y

The creases orfrwrinkles IS do not extend to the tensely stretched`portions of the lining sections butl terminate substantially within themargins of the insole, so that the lining sections remain stretchedsmoothly and evenly on kand against the last. The ends of the Ycordorwire Il are secure-` ly held and prevented from slipping or becominglaX or loose,vas by tying the ends, together as shownV `at I1, orotherwise attaching the ends. The ends of the cord. or wire I5 aresimilarly se curelyby a knot I8, or otherwise, toprevent slip,-v

If desired, the sleeves,V I0 aand I4 and' inwardly drawn margins 8 and/I2 v of the lining sections 2 and 3 may be attached permanently anddirectly invention may be varied otherwise than in the particularsspeciiically: mentioned.

Iclaimr In a stitch-down shoev having an upper in.- cluding a vamp. anda quarter, an insole, an outsole, and a lining for saidv vamp having itsmargin extended inwardly between said insole and said outsole andunattached to said upper and leaving the marginal portion of said upperextended outwardly beyond said insole; a pliable sleeve whollyunattached to the vamp portion of said upper and being attached only toand extending continuously and uninterruptedly throughout the length ofVsaid lining and having its ends at the forward portion of the shoeshank,

fastening means attaching said sleeve and said margin of said liningdirectly to the underside -of said insole and leaving the entire marginof the upper unattached to said lining and attachedvr directly to saidoutsole apart from said attachingv means for said' sleeve, and acontinuous inelastic cord extending through said sleeve Yand having itsend portions attached to each

